|a studio kit for jewellery, gold, and silver||kilns at paragonkilns.co.uk or making jewellery at kitiki.co.uk|
The Home Tumbler Kit is generally used for polishing jewellery, gold, silver, and metals, although it has other applicatons. It's ideal if you want to put a sparkle on keepsakes and treasures, shine-up trinkets and charms, or put a lustre on bracelets and rings.
The kit comprises a motor base, an 1150cc plastic drum, 500gms of mixed-shape corrosion-resistant stainless-steel shot, and 225cc of barrelling compound to keep the drum, the shot, and your work clean.
Tumblers and polishers can be used to refine, matte, or gloss the surface on brass, bronze, cartridge shells, castings, coins, copper, fashion accessories, fingerprint keepsakes, glass, gold, gun components, jewellery, keys, metals, minerals, model parts, rocks, shells, silver, small treasures, and stones. And there are diverse archeological, engineering, geological, hobby, and industrial applications.
It's important to be clear about what you'll get and why:
The motor base is an economy model: no roller-ball drum end-stops, no toothed nylon-reinforced drive belt, and no non-slip cogged drive wheels.
The kit includes a plastic drum: it's cheaper than a rubber drum. It rests on two rollers, one of which is turned by the motor. To keep it in place as it rotates, it's constrained by the roller supports, one at each end.
Although a rubber drum is much simpler to open and close, and quieter in use, I can't recommend upgrading. The supports don't make good contact with the rounded edge of the metal lid and the drum can drag or slip.
Using high-quality shot is vital. Ours is made for us, from slightly-magnetic, rust-resistant, stainless steel. It has a good mix of balls, planetoids, pins, and rods to suit every contour: not just one-size balls with a few planetoids.
Anything described elsewhere as a getting-started pack will almost certainly have regular-steel shapes with no fine balls or pins. And regular-steel shot will soon corrode, make a mess, and spoil your work, so you'd need to buy an appropriate pack sooner rather than later.
For prices, use the shop link below the menu bar near the top-right of any page. Complete kit prices include a UK-EU voltage and CE-marked motor base, a rotating drum, abrasive or polishing media, comprehensive instructions, UK mainland delivery, UK VAT, and continuing free support from a top-tier international distributor. So, no other charges and you can start work straight away.
You don't have to buy a complete kit. All the components for all the kits are available separately, so you can mix-and-match the combination you need. To learn more about the separate parts, use the parts link.
|THE KITIKI STUDIO TUMBLER KIT: PHOTOS|
To look at the pop-up photos, hold your mouse over the zoom buttons below: you don't need to click.
Studio Tumbler Motor Base.
Studio Tumbler With An 1150cc Plastic Drum.
Studio 1150cc Plastic Drum.
Kitiki Stainless-Steel Balls And Planetoids.
Kitiki Stainless-Steel Pins And Rods.
Kitiki Drum Cleaner.
|THE KITIKI STUDIO TUMBLER KIT||JEWELLERY, GOLD, AND SILVER|
The kit comprises a CE Marked motor base, an 1150cc 147mm x 113mm diameter plastic barrel, 500gms of mixed-shape rust-resistant stainless-steel shot, and 225cc of barrelling compound to keep the drum, the shot, and your work clean. The kit uses the Beach ST3 motor base which is guaranteed by the manufacturer for five years: providing you've cared for it.
The motor is rated at 230V-240V 25W, so can use a regular mains socket. It's fully-enclosed inside a vented aluminium case rather than, as with some tumblers, exposed at one end: so it's less prone to damage and damp, and takes up less space.
Including the barrel, it measures 200mm x 130mm x 200mm high, weighs about 3kg, and comes with a 1.8 metre cable ending in a UK 3-pin plug. Plastic protectors stop the tumbler marking your work-top, or slowly creeping and falling off.
The barrel revolves on two plastic rollers, one of which is turned by the motor. There are two plastic barrel-end-stops and a neoprene drive belt which can be adjusted for tension, although it's intended to be loose.
The 1150cc drum is often called a full-size or 3.0lb drum. However, as it holds 1150cc of water, about 1150gm, it's really a 2.53lb drum. So, if you see it described elsewhere as having an actual capacity of 3.0lb, it doesn't.
As you can see in the photo, the 1150cc plastic drum uses the full width of the tumbler body, but you can use two smaller 480cc plastic drums at the same time.
The shot, a mix of nine different sizes of pins and balls, is made for us from high-quality, slightly-magnetic, rust-resistant, stainless steel. It's worth asking yourself why a well-known craft retailer is selling similar-looking shot at nearly three times the price.
It's in 250gm bags: either mixed balls and planetoids or mixed pins and rods. Kits include the correct amount for the size of the drum: 500gms, 1000gms, 1500gms, or 2000gms. For this kit, 500gms of shot is right for the drum size: 250gms wouldn't be fully effective and 1000gms would slow down the rotation.
The cleaner is a mix of chemicals that inhibit corrosion and keep the drum, shot, and your work clean. It's not regular washing-machine powder. It comes in a plastic screw-top pot: not a plastic bag, and not a pot that can't be closed once the seal has been broken.
The instructions for all the tumblers and polishers can be printed here, using the instructions link below the menu bar near the top of the page.
|PLASTIC DRUMS AND RUBBER DRUMS|
You'll need to be careful with a plastic drum and the push-on end caps. If they're not pushed on all the way, the drum won't turn properly and might fall off the rollers.
Plastic drums are a bit fiddlesome to open and close. However, to make the lid easier to push on, stand it in hot water. When it's on, the drum needs to be squeezed to expel as much air as possible because, during prolonged tumbling, the air warms up and expands and can cause the drum to leak.
To make the lid easier to pull off, the whole drum needs to stand in hot water. Prising it off is a good way to break your nails and there's a slight risk that it will suddenly come off and you'll spill your work, shot or grit, and soapy water.
If you have to work in the same room, plastic drums are noisier than rubber: especially as some glass, rocks, and stones might need to tumble for days.
A rubber drum is simpler to fill and empty than a plastic drum as it has a different lid: at one end there's an inner metal lid, a rubber sealing ring, an outer metal lid, and a retaining wing-nut.
If you want to upgrade but want something about the same size, look at the Professional Tumbler Kit. It includes a rubber drum and is better engineered, with a more powerful motor, roller-ball drum end-stops, a toothed nylon-reinforced drive belt, and non-slip cogged drive wheels.
|USING THIS TUMBLER FOR GLASS, METALS, MINERALS, ROCKS, AND STONES|
If you've already bought this tumbler for jewellery, metals, gold, and silver, but now want to try glass, metals, minerals, rocks, and stones, you'll need a three-grit pack with 400gms of 80 grit, 400gms of 220 grit, and 340gms of 400 grit, 200 gms of zinc oxide polish, and 250gm of plastic pellets.
However, grits and polish are a bit like sandy toothpaste, and cleaning out a drum completely, storing the grit, and swapping back to shot is messy and tedious. And I wouldn't recommend using the same single drum for grits and shot as one stray grit particle in the shot will scratch your work.
You could use two barrels: one for grits and one for shot, marked so that you don't mix them up. But, budget constraints aside, it's much better to use four drums for the three grit grades and the polish, and one drum one for the shot. It makes cleaning and storing easier, especially as the three grits look similar and the polish must be kept grit-free.