|a studio kit for jewellery and silver||or look at kilns at electrickilns.co.uk or making jewellery at kitiki.co.uk|
The Kitiki Studio Tumbler Kit is generally used for polishing jewellery and metals, although it has other applicatons. It's popular for putting a lustre on silver and anything made from Art Clay metal clays and PMC silver clays.
The kit comprises a motor base, an 1100cc plastic drum, 1000gms of mixed-shape rust-resistant stainless steel shot, and 225cc of barrelling compound to keep the drum, the shot, and your work clean. 1000gms of media is right for the drum size: 500gms isn't enough.
You can create attractive finishes on brass, bronze, cartridge shells, castings, coins, copper, fashion accessories, fingerprint keepsakes, glass, gold, gun components, jewellery, keys, metals, minerals, model parts, rocks, shells, silver, small treasures, and stones. And there are diverse archeological, engineering, geological, home-hobby, and industrial applications.
This is a complete ready-to-go kit.
The vented motor base houses a powerful motor. It has two plastic barrel-end-stops and a neoprene drive belt. The base and plastic drum are guaranteed by the manufacturer for five years: providing you've looked after them.
The shot is machined from a high-quality, slightly-magnetic, rust-resistant, stainless steel, into a mix of nine different sizes of pins and balls. It's made for us, and is better than the usual plain-steel or inferior stainless shot, both of which have a poor mix of balls and pins and will soon corrode.
If you see shot sold as a getting-started pack, you'll probably get a half-portion of poor quality regular steel which will rust and ruin your work. It won't be enough, and you'll have to buy more once you've experimented.
The cleaner is a mix of chemicals that inhibit corrosion and keep the drum, shot, and your work clean. It comes in a plastic screw-top pot: not a plastic bag, and not a pot that can't be closed once the seal has been broken.
For prices, use the shop link below the menu bar near the top-right of any page. They include UK VAT and UK mainland delivery. So, no other charges and you can start work straight away.
|THE KITIKI STUDIO ROTARY TUMBLER KIT: PHOTOS|
To look at the pop-up photos, hold your mouse over the zoom buttons below: you don't need to click.
The Studio Tumbler Motor Base.
The Studio Tumbler With A Plastic Drum.
The Studio Plastic 1100gm Drum.
The Kitiki Stainless-Steel Balls And Planetoids.
The Kitiki Stainless-Steel Pins And Rods.
The Kitiki Drum Cleaner.
|CONTINUE, OR LOOK AT OTHER TUMBLERS AND POLISHERS?|
This comprehensive internet resource lets you research and compare tumblers in your own time. There's a lot to read, but you'll make the right choice instead of an expensive mistake. The section about plastic and rubber drums is very important.
The kits come in different styles: some include a plastic drum and some a rubber, some can hold one drum and some can hold two, and some are better engineered. The Professional Tumbler Kit is the most popular.
If you want to re-polish delicate, filigree, or low-profile pieces, a magnetic polisher is better, quicker, quieter, and simpler to fill and empty than a rotary tumbler. To learn more, use the magnetic link below the menu bar near the top of the page.
|THE KITIKI STUDIO ROTARY TUMBLER KIT||JEWELLERY AND SILVER|
The kit comrises a motor base, an 1100cc plastic barrel, 1000gms of mixed-shape rust-resistant stainless steel shot, and 225cc of barrelling compound to keep the drum, the shot, and your work clean. It's based on the Beach Lapidary ST3.
The motor is rated at 230V-240V 25W, so can use a regular mains socket. It's fully-enclosed inside a vented aluminium case rather than, as with some tumblers, exposed at one end: so it's less prone to damage and damp, and takes up less space.
Including the barrel, it measures 200mm x 130mm x 200mm high, weighs about 2kg, and comes with a 1.8 metre cable ending in a UK 3-pin plug. Plastic protectors stop the tumbler marking your work-top, or slowly creeping and falling off.
The barrel revolves on two rubber rollers, one of which is turned by the motor. The neoprene drive belt can be adjusted if it eventually needs tightening. However, it's intended to be loose.
As you can see in the photo, the 1100gm plastic drum uses the full width of the tumbler body, so you can't use a larger drum or two smaller drums at the same time.
Although the 1100gm drum is often called a full-size or 3.0lb drum, it actually holds 1100cc of water, about 1100gm, and 1100gm is about 2.20lb. So, if you see these drums described elsewhere as 3.0lbs, they're not.
The tumblers and polishers have been engineered and comprehensively tested for countries that have 230V-240V mains: the UK, the EU, and most other areas. They're CE Marked and comply with EU safety standards.
The instructions for all the tumblers and polishers can be printed here, using the instructions link below the menu bar near the top of the page.
|WHY THE STUDIO KIT INCLUDES A PLASTIC DRUM, NOT A RUBBER DRUM|
The Studio Tumbler Kit includes a plastic drum: because it's cheaper. If you need to upgrade but want something about the same size, look at the Professional Tumbler Kit which includes a rubber drum. The Professional Tumbler is better engineered: it has a more powerful motor, roller-ball drum end-stops, a toothed nylon-reinforced drive belt, and non-slip cogged drive wheels.
As it rotates, the drum stays central by gently rubbing against the brackets, one at either end, that hold the roller ends. A rubber drum drags more than a plastic, so can sometimes fall off the rollers.
Plastic drums are fiddlesome to open and close, noisy in use, and sometimes leak. And, if the end caps aren't pushed on all the way, the drum won't turn properly and can fall off the rollers. You'll just need to be a bit more careful.
To make the lid easier to push on, it needs to stand in hot water. When it's on, the drum needs to be squeezed to expel as much air as possible because, during prolonged tumbling, the air warms up and expands and can cause the drum to leak.
To make the lid easier to pull off, the whole drum needs to stand in hot water. Prising it off is a good way to break your nails and there's a slight risk that it will suddenly come off and you'll spill your work, shot or grit, and soapy water.
If you have to work in the same room, plastic drums are very noisy: especially as some glass, rocks, and stones might need to tumble for days, or even weeks.
Rubber drums are better, quieter, and don't leak. They're simpler to fill and empty than plastic drums as they use a different lid mechanism: at one end there's an inner metal lid, a rubber sealing ring, an outer metal lid, and a retaining wing-nut.
|USING THIS TUMBLER FOR GLASS, METALS, MINERALS, ROCKS, AND STONES|
If you've already bought this tumbler for jewellery and metals, but now want to smooth and polish glass, rocks, and stones, you'll need a three-grit pack with 450gms of 80 grit, 450gms of 220 grit, and 450gms of 400 grit, 200 gms of zinc oxide polish, and 250gm of plastic pellets.
However, grits and polish are a bit like sandy toothpaste, and cleaning out a drum completely, storing the grit, and swapping back to shot is messy and tedious. And I wouldn't recommend using the same single drum for grits and shot as one stray grit particle in the shot will scratch your work.
You could use two barrels: one for grits and one for shot, marked so that you don't mix them up. But, budget constraints aside, it's much better to use four drums for the three grit grades and the polish, and one drum one for the shot. It makes cleaning and storing easier, especially as the three grits look similar and the polish must be kept grit-free.